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The
Frame
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Glen
Way purchased the frame from Woody Gilmore's Race Car Engineering. It
carried a scant 93" wheelbase. The model's frame is constructed
with Plastruct 1/16" plastic coated wire(which
I also use on my funnycar and dragster frames)
. With the wire, it's strong enough, and with the plastic coating it
takes glue easy enough. Some people may dispute this, but, I find this
product easy to work with. Evergreen plastic rod, .035", was used
for the uprights (connections to the main rails), and .020" plastic
rod was used for the stringers (the diagonal connections between uprights). The width of the frame was attained by looking at the 3/4 shot (below) of the actual car. The upper frame rails pass just inside the front grill shell. That provided a reasonable estimate of the width. Next, with the side shot, a ruler was used to see approximately where the two main rails ended up. The lower rail ends even with, or just past the differential axle shafts. The upper rail goes past the driver's compartment, and extends under the body's turtle deck to support the rear mounted fuel tank. (You can see the tank in the rear wheel opening.) There is also a third set of rails to support the roll cage, seat, and steering box. Generally, this third set of rails would start at, or just behind the firewall and extend around the top lip of the seat. Simple, huh? Once the frame was constructed using good old Testor's tube glue, and Crazy Glue, the brackets for the throttle, clutch pedals, dual master cylinders, front shock mounts, rear axle mounts, grill shell support, and fuel tank supports were made with .015" sheet plastic. For the roll cage, I used a combination of .100" plastic rod, some plastic from the "Miss Deal" kit, and .015" sheet plastic for the chute supports. Once the mock up was complete, the frame was shot with Model Master gloss black enamel. |
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| The above photo was used to do much of the framerail configuration. Below shows the mating of the body and chassis along with the rear chassis section with the fuel tank mount. | |
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The
Cockpit
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The
biggest problem posed by the office space of this car was the seat.
It employs a dragster style wrap around seat which is no problem. Hell,
I have tons of those in kit form. The problem was the upholstery ON
the seat. It has an angled waffle pattern. I decided the entire seat.
Sheet plastic, .030" thick was curved to fit the uppermost frame
rail, then a bottom section was added. Squadron white putty was then
applied to the inside of the seat. Once dry, the putty was sanded. A
pencil was used to draw out the waffle pattern in the seat. Once I was
satisfied with the results, a hobby knife was used to etch the pattern
into the seat. Once the pattern was knifed out, three grades of sand
paper, 320, 400, 600, were used to soften each waffle "block".
It took some time but was well worth the effort. The slots were drilled
out for the shoulder and lap belts. Finally, the seat was shot with
a mixture of Model Master gloss and flat black. The
interior tin was made from .015" thick sheet plastic. The plastic
was polished out, and Metalizer buffing aluminum was used. The throttle pedal came from the 22Jr. dragster, while the clutch pedal, brake handle, dual master cylinders, fuel shut off knob, kill switch and chute release pull rings were scratch built. The butterfly steering wheel is a photo etch item with .015" thick sheet plastic added for the grips. The plastic was sanded to shape, and painted to simulate wood. The harness is made from The Model Car Garage belt material, and the buckles are from sheet plastic. |
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The
Body and Tinwork
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The
Ford "T" fiberglass body was ordered through Cal Automotive
by Glen Way. It weighed a scant 30 pounds! I purchased a resin "T" altered body from a NNL East years ago, but wasn't too pleased with it. Onward. The body in the MPC "Wild Willie" kit was used along with the upper section of the grill shell. The engine on this car sits pretty high on the frame rails. The driver has to see over and around the blower. This is the reason the body sits the way it does. If you notice in the side shot of the actual car, the driver's compartment sits back in the body. With that, a section in the rear of the "Wild Willie" body was removed, and a piece of .030" sheet plastic, curved to shape took it's place. Also, on the "Wild Willie" body, the body molding, just in front of the "door", on the cowl is absent. Some half round plastic rod was used for this. Details, details. Next, the wheel opening would have to be partially filled, and the side of the turtle deck opened. The upper body cover, (tonneau cover), was made from .030" sheet plastic. It was filled and sanded to shape. The wind screen is made from .015" sheet plastic. The existing firewall was removed, and holes were drilled for the chute cord anchors, and rear body bumper. The "T" grill shell was cut apart, and new sides added using .030" sheet plastic. |
| The cavernous rear wheel openings posed a bit of a problem when it came time to "tin" that area. Time to head to the model stash. I looked at various fenderwells on chassis. None of themwere large enough. Just for grins, I opened the AMT Batcar kit. Damn! Lo and behold there they were! Who said the kit was worthless! Anyway, this is the black plastic you see in the under body shot. The firewall and rest of the tin work is made from .010" and .015" sheet plastic. All of this was polished out and Metalizer buffing aluminum was applied. | |
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With
our next installment, we'll wrap this thing up!
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