Chassis Tubing
The frame members in the first shot are all .080" half-round. Next I'm adding crossmembers and secondary tubing in .060". The later shot shows the rear crossmember & trans crossmember with built in driveshaft loops.
Most of the "tubing" in the pic is actually simply .080 half-round glued to the bottom of the kit interior bucket, and .080" rod from the firewall forward. Thats how I was able to do this in 1 1/2 hours. I LOVE quick & dirty shortcuts that look like major scratchbuilding...George Crombie


A-Arms
We have 1/8" brass channel for mounting brackets. Straight pins with plastic balls and 1/16 brass tubing make up the A-arms and heim joints. The strut receiver is flat brass sheet drilled for the bottom pin of the strut. Build struts from tubing, so that they telescope and add a spring like that from a ball point pen...Rick Gondeck



Chassis Splices
Frequently, modifying a tube frame or rollbar requires rejoining sections of tubing. The adjoining segments have very little surface area, and do not provide enough strenght if they are merely cemented back together. In such instances, simply drill a hole in the center of the end of each section, and insert a short length of brass rod or music wire. This technique will provide plenty of support to stand up to any subsequent work that is required, such as sanding and smoothing the joint...Dan Himmel, SLM
Radius Rods

While there are several different methods of creating radius rods-- including using kit parts and cutting them to length, or simply smashing the ends of tubing flat and drilling them, we feel that this method is, all-around, the easiest and most realistic way of creating them. You’ll need 3/64” brass tubing (mfg. by Special Shapes), appropriately sized hex nut/bolt/washer castings (Detail Associates) and HO scale handrail stanchions for model locomotives (see below). I acquired all three items from Caboose Hobbies, in Denver, CO, although most well-stocked hobby shops that carry train supplies should have them. If you can’t find them locally, they should be readily available on the 'net. The diagram above illustrates the steps used to create them.                                                                
Beginning on the left, we have the basic materials used. Cut the tubing to length, allowing for the length of two heim joints (the handrail stanchions) from eye to eye. Drawings 2, 3 and 4 detail the more advanced version of filing flats on each side of the stanchions, drilling them out to accept a bushing made of wire insulation, and installing the bushings. Next, we see the bolt head inserted into the heim joint. The sixth view shows the completed radius rod, ready for installation. Finally, we have an exploded view, showing all the components ready for assembly. Note: The given sizes of materials are for 1/24-1/25 scale models. For other scales, adjust materials as needed.

There are several styles of HO scale handrail stanchions from several manufacturers. It's important to purchase the correct style. Here's a photo of Cary Locomotive Works part number 13-118. If you can't find 13-118 13-117 is the same thing, only in a ten count package. I'd recommend 13-118, as it is fifty count as opposed to ten--once you start using them, you'll go through them!...Dan Himmel

 
 
 
Spring Arch Jig
This answered a dilemma I'd had for years. Since I was a kid, I'd been looking for a way to re-arch kit leaf springs in order to raise (or lower) the rear end of models.  I'd tried heating the springs over a candle but the results were very inconsistent, and it was even harder to get both springs bent with the same arch. A couple of years ago I had a blinding flash of inspiration (or something) and came up with this. I took a piece of hardwood and, with a small drill in my Dremel, drilled a grid of holes in the wood block. The holes were sized to match some small nails I had, and were drilled on about 1/4" spacing.  Now, when I want to re-arch a pair of springs, I simply find a pattern of nails in holes that will hold and bend the springs appropriately, put the springs in place, side by side, and hit them with a blow dryer for a minute or two. Voila! Recurved springs with identical arches.  Works like a charm! Here's a photo of the tool with a pair of springs in place...Mark Brown

Roll Cages

When installed properly, roll cages should essentially remain unseen inside the car, excepting a diagonal and upright or two. Here’s one way to keep them snug against the roof:

I just take some wire and, with the interior tub temporarily installed in the body, stick it in through the side window and bend it till I get one side of the main hoop the right height.  Then I bend the other side out of the same wire and test fit a few dozen times. Once I make the main hoop out of the cage material, I put pins in the bottom and drill holes in the tub, so the hoop will stay put while I test fit it.  I can trim it as needed at that point. The main booger is getting the halo right...nothing looks dumber than seeing the halo located halfway down the side window.  It's fiddly work, but once the cage is in there, you should hardly be able to see it from the outside. That's the sign of a good cage in a 1:1 car, and same thing with a model...Mark Brown
Tips&How-to