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A-Arms
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We
have 1/8" brass channel for mounting brackets. Straight pins
with plastic balls and 1/16 brass tubing make up the A-arms and
heim joints. The strut receiver is flat brass sheet drilled for
the bottom pin of the strut. Build struts from tubing, so that they
telescope and add a spring like that from a ball point pen...Rick
Gondeck
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Chassis
Splices
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modifying a tube frame or rollbar requires rejoining sections of tubing.
The adjoining segments have very little surface area, and do not provide
enough strenght if they are merely cemented back together. In such
instances, simply drill a hole in the center of the end of each section,
and insert a short length of brass rod or music wire. This technique
will provide plenty of support to stand up to any subsequent work
that is required, such as sanding and smoothing the joint...Dan Himmel,
SLM |
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Radius
Rods
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While there are several different methods of creating radius rods--
including using kit parts and cutting them to length, or simply smashing
the ends of tubing flat and drilling them, we feel that this method
is, all-around, the easiest and most realistic way of creating them.
You’ll need 3/64” brass tubing (mfg. by Special Shapes),
appropriately sized hex nut/bolt/washer castings (Detail Associates)
and HO scale handrail stanchions for model locomotives (Athearn numbers
10425 (long) and 10424 (short)). I acquired all three items from Caboose
Hobbies, in Denver, CO, although most well-stocked hobby shops that
carry train supplies should have them. If you can’t find them
locally, they should be readily available on the ‘net. The diagram
to the right illustrates the steps used to create them.
Beginning on the left, we have the basic materials used. Cut the tubing
to length, allowing for the length of two heim joints (the handrail
stanchions) from eye to eye. Drawings 2, 3 and 4 detail the more advanced
version of filing flats on each side of the stanchions, drilling them
out to accept a bushing made of wire insulation, and installing the
bushings. Next, we see the bolt head inserted into the heim joint.
The sixth view shows the completed radius rod, ready for installation.
Finally, we have an exploded view, showing all the components ready
for assembly. Note: The given sizes of materials are for 1/24-1/25
scale models. For other scales, adjust materials as needed...Dan Himmel |
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Spring
Arch Jig
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This
answered a dilemma I'd had for years. Since I was a kid, I'd been
looking for a way to re-arch kit leaf springs in order to raise
(or lower) the rear end of models. I'd tried heating the springs
over a candle but the results were very inconsistent, and it was
even harder to get both springs bent with the same arch. A couple
of years ago I had a blinding flash of inspiration (or something)
and came up with this. I took a piece of hardwood and, with a small
drill in my Dremel, drilled a grid of holes in the wood block. The
holes were sized to match some small nails I had, and were drilled
on about 1/4" spacing. Now, when I want to re-arch a pair
of springs, I simply find a pattern of nails in holes that will
hold and bend the springs appropriately, put the springs in place,
side by side, and hit them with a blow dryer for a minute or two.
Voila! Recurved springs with identical arches. Works like
a charm! Here's a photo of the tool with a pair of springs in place...Mark
Brown
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Roll
Cages
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When
installed properly, roll cages should essentially remain unseen
inside the car, excepting a diagonal and upright or two. Here’s
one way to keep them snug against the roof:
I
just take some wire and, with the interior tub temporarily installed
in the body, stick it in through the side window and bend it till
I get one side of the main hoop the right height. Then I bend
the other side out of the same wire and test fit a few dozen times.
Once I make the main hoop out of the cage material, I put pins in
the bottom and drill holes in the tub, so the hoop will stay put
while I test fit it. I can trim it as needed at that point.
The main booger is getting the halo right...nothing looks dumber
than seeing the halo located halfway down the side window.
It's fiddly work, but once the cage is in there, you should hardly
be able to see it from the outside. That's the sign of a good cage
in a 1:1 car, and same thing with a model...Mark Brown
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