Radiator Tubes

Here're a couple shots of the radiator that I modified for my Mura Bros. Willys. One is a comparison of the kit piece and my modified one. Another one shows the inner tubes that I put in and the other one shows the completed radiator. Man, after doing this, I'll never look at a kit radiator in quite the same manner! I've got to give Don Farhni all the credit for me doing this. I've used the P/E radiator screen (Detail Master P/E. Part # DM2490, Radiator Face Panel--I have a price tag of $5.95 on the one I used.) OVER kit radiators before and it looked better. However, having done this now, I can't go back!

The "tubes" are good old Evergreen Styrene strips, .010X.060. .010 because that was the thinnest I had in my stash and .060 because that's what worked best for the thickness of this particular radiator. I cut out the center core of the radiator using a scriber and a photoetched (P/E) saw blade.
Then, I squared everything up with files and sanding sticks. (pay special attention to the corners) Then I laid the shell over the strip and cut it to fit. Next, I made sure that it fit the opening and placed it on my Chopper II. I laid a piece of aluminum sheet on the bed at the correct measurement and went to chopping away. I made 21 of those little boogers, cuz that's how many lines were on the P/E screen.

Using the radiator shell, I lined up the P/E and marked it for cutting. I just cut it with an Xacto and a straight edge. Then the fun started! I glued all the strips into the open area using one side of the P/E grill as a guide for them. When I paint it, I'll line up and glue in the other P/E grill.
That's it! No secret 'Gree-Gree'or other magic hoodoo. Just take your time and do a lot of pre-fitting. Oh yeah, glasses and magnifiers come in handy!...Tim Pentecost




Overflow Hoses
I had a lot of trouble finding clear hose the right size to replicate the breather hoses from the valve covers. After a lot of searching/head scratching (so that's why the hair's gone!) I decided on clear shrink tube. These are 3mm diameter. I wrapped a length of fine wire around a smaller rod then stretched the wire tocreate even gaps. Next, I slipped the wire into the shrink tube and heated it evenly over its length while rotating it. Presto! A wire reinforced
hose. Now the best part is that when you remove the hose from the brass rod that you shrunk it on, it can be reheated, bent to whatever shape is desired, and when it cools, it stays there...Kiwi Jack



90 Degree Plug Boots
Here's a method I concocted last year that works pretty well and is only a 7.5 on the Pain-in-the-ass scale.  Made up this little drawing to illustrate better than I can explain it...MarkBrown


Gilmer Drive Belts
First, stick two pieces of black electrical tape together so it's double thickness. Apply them together so you end up still having a sticky side (don't stick the adhesive sides together).  Once you've got the double thickness tape, lay it face down on a piece of glass and, using a sharp hobby knife and a steel straightedge, cut a strip the thickness of the belt you need. Peel the belt-to-be off the glass and tape it back down, sticky side up, by taping down the very ends with the belt pulled taut between. Now, use the Evergreen strip (I use .015" x .020"...PN #110...I think it's the smallest they make) and place a strip crosswise on the tape. Press it down with the point of your knife and trim it to the width of the belt. Repeat, spacing them about the thickness of a strip apart ( Editor’s note: I cut the Evergreen strip into two longer pieces and place and cut one, then use the other as a spacer to lay the next cog.), till you get to the other end of the belt (Left Image). Once you get the hang of it it goes pretty quickly—you should be able to do the whole belt in ten or fifteen minutes.  Once you're finished and all the teeth are trimmed neatly, you can lightly brush some CA cement over it.  I place a drop on it and brush it around, very gently, with a piece of paper towel.  Be careful not to dislodge any teeth and, most importantly, don’t overdo the CA or the belt will become stiff.  Finally, shoot it with a coat of Krylon semi-gloss black on the tooth side and wrap it around the supercharger drive pulleys...Don Fahrni, Mark Brown