In years of building and looking at dragster models, something that has generally detracted from the majority of them has been their front wheels.  In recent years, the aftermarket has begun manufacturing photo-etched wire wheel kits. While these are a vast improvement over the bulky-spoked kit pieces, photo-etched spokes are flat.  Obviously, real wire wheels have round spokes.
     Roger “Riceman” Lee discovered a method of building wire wheels (Riceman cites the book The World of Model Cars , by Vic Smeed, as his inspiration). With his instruction, and a bit of improvisation, I was able to create wire wheels of my own. Riceman builds his from brass tubing and music wire, as I built my first set. While brass is simple enough to work with, many builders are intimidated by the thought of working with new material. So, I thought, “Why not see if they can be made from plastic?” What follows are photos and instructions so that anyone can build realistic wire wheels for their dragster models. While they are relatively simple to build, be prepared to spend some time in their creation. Your efforts will be rewarded with the finest set of wheels you’ve ever installed on a model. You may be tempted to build sets for all your dragsters! Thanks to Roger for making these possible.

(Left)These are the tools and supplies you'll need to build your own set of wire wheels. The hole punch is used to make the hub ends from .015" sheet styrene.

This photo shows the different pieces that go into the creation of each wheel. Begin by removing the spokes from the desired kit wheels and smoothing the inside of the four rim halves  with sandpaper. You'll need eighty spokes to make a pair of wheels . The hub assemblies are built from 3/32" tubing (roughly 1/8" long) and 3/16" disks. Finally, drill the hub end attached to the spool using the "spindle bit", and the "free" disk with the 3/32" bit.

Here are the balsa block, the template and the straight pins used to anchor things in place on the block.Bend three of the straight pins approximately 3/8" from their points to a 90 degree angle. The bends keep them out of the way when you're laying the spokes.

Attach the wheel center (in this case, the disk only, which is drilled with a 3/32" bit), and the rim to the template/block with the straight pins. The bent pins are used to hold the rim in place. Place the rim pins approximately 120 degrees apart, and be sure they are snug against the rim, but not so tight as to distort the shape of the rim. Use just enough pins in the center to hold the disk in place.

Begin by cementing spokes--aligning them with those on the template in one direction. A small amount of cement (I like either Tenax or Ambroid's Pro Weld for the spoke installation phase of construction) at each end is sufficient.

Once a complete revolution has been made--in this case, the clockwise direction...

Repeat the process going the opposite direction, until all twenty have been attached. While this photo is of the opposite half of the wheel than we began with, the process is identical for both wheel halves.

Here is one half of a wheel. As can be seen in this photo, the spokes do not need to be cut to the exact length before installation--simply make sure they are cut long enough. Now, repeat the process with the other half of the wheel.

This photo shows the outside of the wheel. It's already evident that time and effort can make all the difference in the world to a set of wire wheels!

Here are both halves of a wheel. Note that one includes the tubing and one simply uses the drilled out disk.

The back sides of the wheel halves. Again, note the difference in the centers.

Now, using a sharp X-Acto knife, trim the excess length from the spokes.

The insides after trimming the spokes.

The outsides after the trim. At this point, soften the spokes where they sit on the rim with liquid cement. While the spokes are still soft, but no longer "gooey" from the cement, press the back side of each wheel half against a piece of glass, polished marble, of other smooth, hard surface to flatten the ends of the spokes. This creates a better surface for attaching the wheel halves. Should the spokes not flatten completely, simply sand the rim backs until they are smooth (be careful not to sand through the spokes, as that will detach them from the rim).

Now,  join the wheel halves! Your new wheel should look like this. Align the halves so that the spokes look like an 'X' with a lower case 'L' on each side (offset the pattern). Now, think of all the weight saved by the smaller diameter spokes!

The completed wheel painted with Krylon's "Original Chrome." A nice touch can be added by painting the spokes and the rims different shades of metal such as chrome for the spokes and dull aluminum for the rims.

The new wheels compared with the best kit wheels I could find (I believe they are from Revell's Tony Nancy 22 Jr. kit). The scratchbuilt wheels look much more realistic! One final note about the construction--as these wheels are incredibly delicate, laterally, it is important to drill the hub and its end to fit the spindles you're using before assembly. I didn't the first time, and it cost me a wheel, and all the time I spent building it.

*Right-click this template (or draw your own), and remember where you save it. Size it accordingly, print it, and use it as a guide to lay the spokes in a proper array.